Provencal Appetizers

Servings: —
Source: From David Tannis ”A Platter of Figs”
Provençal Toasts

The traditional hors d’oeuvre in Provence is a crust of toasted bread smeared with a dab of a tasty spread. The idea is to offer your guests a little something before the meal, but nothing too filling. A bowl of olives is de rigueur, and a platter of these savory croutons (or toasts or crostini) is suitably casual.

Day-old baguettes are a staple in most Provençal kitchens, and there, as in the rest of the Mediterranean, old bread is always put to good use. Of course, it’s possible to use fresh bread, but day-old works better. To make the toasts, simply slice a baguette as thin as possible. Paint the slices – an average baguette will yield about 20 slices­ – very lightly with olive oil, spread them in one layer on a baking sheet, and bake at 375°F until barely browned, about 10 minutes. Cool the toasts to room temperature.

Any number of savory pastes (such as the three that follow) can be used to top the toasts. Traditional favorites include anchoiade, a garlicky anchovy paste, and tapenade, a black and green olive paste. Other choices are goat cheese with herbs, roasted pepper puree, or basil pesto. All can be made a day ahead. Then, just before serving, the toasts are spread quite lightly with the topping, just a soupçon-a scant teaspoon per toast.

Ingredients
Tapenade
Grilled Eggplant
Spicy Walnet

Directions
Tapenade This is the simplest olive paste. For

1 cup pitted Niçoise olives 2 anchovy fillets, well rinsed 2 garlic cloves, chopped ¼ cup olive oil, or a little more Salt and pepper to taste

Grind all the ingredients to a fine paste in a blender or food processor. Scrape the paste into a bowl, taste, and adjust the seasoning. Thin with a little more olive oil if you like. If too much olive oil rises to surface, blot off with paper towel.

Grilled eggplant paste appetizer Grilling the eggplant gives this spread a faint smoky flavor.

6 Japanese eggplants (not globe) Salt and pepper Juice of 1 small lemon 2 teaspoons chopped capers 1 garlic clove, smashed to a paste with a little salt 2 teaspoons chopped parsley 2 teaspoons finely minced chives ¼ cup olive oil

Put the eggplants under the broiler, over an open flame, or over hot coals and cook for 10 minutes or so, turning frequently, until the skins are blackened and the flesh is soft. Set aside to cool.

Cut the eggplants lengthwise in half and scrape the flesh from the skins. Chop the eggplant flesh coarsely with a knife and put it in a bowl. Pour off or blot any juices, and season with salt and pepper. Add the lemon juice, capers, garlic, parsley, and chives. Stir in the olive oil with a fork and mash everything a bit. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Spicy walnut paste This walnut paste is of Arabic origin but it works well in a Provencal context.

1 small tomato, peeled and chopped 1½ cups shelled walnuts Salt and pepper to taste ¼ teaspoon cayenne or hot red pepper flakes or piment d’Espeletre 1 garlic clove, chopped ¼ cup olive oil, or a little more

Grind all the ingredients to a paste in a blender or food processor. Put the paste in a bowl. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding a little more oil if necessary.