Category: Entrees

Sautéed Chicken Breasts with Gremolata

Servings: 4
Source: Fine Cooking 12/2001 pg 61
A simple mixture of parsley, lemon zest, and garlic, gremolata is the vibrantly flavored garnish traditionally sprinkled over braised veal shanks in the Italian dish called osso buco. Here, it’s stirred into a pan sauce, which gives the chicken a wonderful lift.

Ingredients
1/3 cup packed finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 large clove garlic, minced
4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (about 6 oz. each) or
8 boneless, skinless thighs
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Flour for coating the chicken
2 Tbs. canola oil
1/2 cup homemade or low-salt canned chicken broth
1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice

Directions
In a small bowl, combine the parsley, lemon zest, and garlic; set aside. Sprinkle the chicken with salt and pepper and coat both sides with flour. In a large, heavy skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When it’s very hot, add the chicken and brown on both sides, 3 to 4 min. per side. Transfer the chicken to a plate. Pour the broth and lemon juice into the skillet and boil for 1 min., stirring with a wooden spoon to scrape up all the browned bits. Return the chicken to the pan, lower the heat to medium, cover, and simmer until the chicken is cooked through, 3 to 5 min. (Total cooking time will depend on the thickness of the breasts; cut into one to see if it’s done.) Transfer the chicken to a serving plate. . Spoon the sauce over the chicken and serve at once.

Can be made in advance without adding the gremolata mixture into the sause. Reheat, then stir the gremolata into the pan sauce

Even better served over sauted spinach.

Salmon in Crisp Rice Paper with Sweet & Spicy Sake Essence

Servings: 4
Source: Fine cooking 4,5/2003 pg 42

Ingredients
FOR THE SAKE ESSENCE:
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp sake
1 cup mirin
1 Tbsp rice vinegar
2 Tbsp minced fresh ginger
2 lg cloves garlic, minced
½ tsp seeded and minced fresh serrano chile
1 Tbsp vegetable oil
2 Tbsp finely diced red bell pepper
2 Tbsp finely diced yellow bell pepper
2 Tbsp finely diced zucchini (skin side only)
2 Tbsp finely diced carrot
1 tsp soy sauce
2 tsp chopped fresh cilantro; more sprigs for garnish

FOR THE SALMON:
4 skinless salmon fillets (ab 6 oz each)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup canola oil
4 rounds rice paper (8 to 10 inches)

Directions
To sear the salmon without the rice paper, follow the same directions for sautéing. Mirin (sweet Japanese rice wine) is available in the Asian food section of grocery stores. To make the sake essence: In a heavy, 2-quart saucepan, combine the sake, mirin, rice vinegar, ginger, garlic, and serrano, bring to a boil over high heat, and reduce to about ½ cup, 10 to 15 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Sauté the peppers, zucchini, and carrot until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Add the soy sauce and vegetables to the sake essence; set aside and keep warm.

To prepare the salmon: Sprinkle both sides of each salmon fillet with salt and pepper and drizzle with a little of the vegetable oil, using 1 tablespoon total for the four fillets. Wrap each fillet in rice paper, following the discussion below.

Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons oil in a heavy, 12-inch skillet over medium to medium high heat until it’s hot and shimmering but not smoking. Put the wrapped fillets in the skillet without touching and sauté, turning to brown top and bottom, until the rice paper is golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes per side; don’t overcooks (If the fillets are very thick, you can also brown the sides for 1 minute each, but most fillets will be cooked through just barely opaque-if just the top and bottom are seared.) Transfer to paper towels and let drain.

Stir the chopped cilantro into the sake essence and spoon some onto each of four warm dinner plates. Put a salmon fillet in the center of each plate, top with a cilantro sprig, and serve at once.

How to Wrap fish in rice paper

·Completely immerse one round of rice paper in a bowl of warm water for a few seconds. Transfer to a work surface and let stand until pliable, about 30 seconds.

·Set a salmon fillet in the center of the softened rice paper. Fold the paper over one long side of the fillet, and then fold the paper in over the two short sides.

·Roll the fillet over until it’s completely enclosed by the rice paper. Set it aside with the seam side down. Repeat with the remaining fillets.

Make-ahead tips:

·The sake essence can be made several hours ahead and kept covered at room temperature. Wait to sauté and add the vegetables until just before serving.

·The fillets can be wrapped in rice paper up to two hours ahead. Put them on a plate in a single layer without touching. Drape with a damp paper towel, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate until ready to cook.

Saffron Risotto with Wild Mushrooms and Arugula

Servings: 4
Arugula is a peppery green that is stirred into this risotto at the last minute to add extra color and texture. Use a variety of wild or cultivated wild mushrooms, such as porcini or cipes, oyster mushrooms, and shiitake.

Ingredients

Ingredients

2 cups Vegetable Stock (page 45)
Pinch of saffron, strands
4 tablespoons of butter
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 1/4 cups Arborio rice
½ cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup (6 ounces) fresh wild mushrooms
1 cup (4 ounces) tightly packed arugula
I/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan or pecorino cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Directions
Heat the stock in a small saucepan, add the saffron, and let infuse for 10 minutes.

Heat the butter in a medium skillet and saute the onion and garlic for 5 minutes, or until soft. Add the rice and stir over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes, or until rice is opaque. Pour in the wine and simmer rapidly until most of the liquid has evaporated. Add a third of the stock, stir once, and sinnner gently over a low heat until the liquid is absorbed. Repeat this twice with the remaining stock, until the rice is tender, about 25 minutes.

Just before the rice is cooked, heat the oil in a small skillet and stir-fry the mushrooms over high heat until golden. Reduce the heat, add the arugula, and stir-fry for a few seconds, until just wilted.

Stir the mushrooms and arugula into the rice, along with the Parmesan, salt, and plenty of pepper.

Serve immediately.

Root Vegetable Cobbler with Chive Biscuit Topping

Servings: 6
Source: Bon Appétit
January 2001

Ingredients
Filling

3 tablespoons butter
1 large onion, chopped
1 1/2 pounds white-skinned potatoes, peeled, cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 3 2/3 cups)
1 8- to 9-ounce turnip, peeled, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 large carrot, peeled, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 1/2-ounce package dried porcini mushrooms*
1 1/2 teaspoons dried thyme
3/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 141/2-ounce can vegetable broth
1 cup water
1 cup whipping cream
8 ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, caps diced
1 cup frozen peas
1/4 cup chopped fresh chives
1 tablespoon all purpose flour

Biscuit topping

2 cups all purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup chopped fresh chives
6 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
2 large eggs
1/2 cup whole milk

Directions
For filling:
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in heavy large pot over medium-high heat. Add onion and sauté until deep golden, about 7 minutes. Add next 7 ingredients and stir 1 minute. Add broth and 1 cup water; bring to boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until vegetables are almost tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in cream, shiitake mushrooms, peas and chives. Season to taste with salt. Bring mixture to simmer. Mix remaining 1 tablespoon butter and flour in small bowl to blend. Stir into vegetable mixture; simmer until mixture thickens slightly, about 5 minutes. Divide vegetable mixture among six 2-cup soufflé or baking dishes; set aside. (Can be prepared 1 1/2 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature.)

For biscuit topping:
Preheat oven to 425°F. Sift flour, baking powder and salt into bowl. Stir in chives. Add butter; rub in with fingertips until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add eggs and milk and stir until soft moist dough forms.
Turn dough out onto generously floured surface. Knead gently just to combine. Divide dough into 6 equal pieces; pat out each piece to 31/2-inch round. Place 1 dough round atop vegetable filling in each dish (some filling will show around edges). Place dishes on large baking sheet. Bake until topping is golden and vegetable mixture is heated through, about 18 minutes. Let stand 5 minutes. Serve hot.

Roast Turkey with Chestnut and Apple Corn -Bread Stuffing and Brandied Giblet Gravy

Servings: —
Source: Gourmet, 11/1988

Ingredients
For the stuffing

corn bread for stuffing (recipe follows)
2 cups chopped onion
1½ cups chopped celery
1½ sticks (¾ cup) unsalted butter, softened
2 cups pecans
3 tablespoons minced fresh sage leaves or 1 tablespoon crumbled dried
2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme leaves or 2 teaspoons crumbled dried
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon crumbled dried
½ cup minced fresh parsley leaves
3 Granny Smith apples

a 12- to 14-pound turkey, the neck and giblets (excluding the liver) reserved for making turkey giblet stock
1½ sticks (¼ cup) unsalted butter, softened
1 cup turkey giblet stock (below) or chicken stock

For the gravy
1 cup dry white wine
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
3 cups turkey giblet stock and the reserved cooked neck and giblets
3 tablespoons Cognac or other brandy, or to taste

fresh sage leaves and thyme sprigs for garnish

Directions
Make the stuffing: Crumble the corn bread coarse into 2 jelly-roll pans, bake it in the middle of a preheated 325° F. oven, stirring occasionally, for 30 to 35 minutes, or until it is dry and deep golden, and transfer it to a large bowl. In a large skillet cook the onion and the celery with salt and pepper to taste in ½ stick of the butter over moderately low heat, stirring, until the vegetables are softened and transfer the mixture to the bowl of corn bread. Add the pecans, the sage, the thyme, the rosemary, the parsley, the remaining 1 stick butter, melted, and salt and pepper to taste, toss the mixture gently until it is combined well, and let it cool. The mixture may be prepared up to this point 1 day in advance and kept covered and chilled. (Do not stuff the turkey in advance.) Just before stuffing the turkey stir into the mixture the apples, peeled, cored, and cut into ¼-inch pieces.

Rinse the turkey, pat it dry, and season it inside and out with salt and pepper. Pack the neck cavity loosely with some of the stuffing, fold the neck skin under the body, and fasten it with a skewer. Pack the body cavity loosely with some of the remaining stuffing and truss the turkey. Transfer the remaining stuffing to a buttered 2-quart baking dish and reserve it, covered and chilled. Spread the turkey with ½ stick of the butter and roast it on the rack of a roasting pan in a preheated 425° F. oven for 30 minutes. Reduce the heat to 325° F., baste the turkey with the pan juices, and drape it with a piece of cheesecloth soaked in the remaining I stick butter, melted and coolest Roast the turkey, basting it every 20 minutes, for 2 hours and 30 minutes to 3 hours more, or until the juices run clear when the fleshy part of a thigh is pricked with a skewer and a meat thermometer inserted in the fleshy part of a thigh registers 180° F. During the last hour of roasting bake the reserved stuffing, drizzled with the 1 cup stock and covered loosely, in the 325° F. oven. Discard the cheesecloth and trussing string, transfer the turkey to a heated platter, and keep it warm, covered loosely with foil.

Make the gravy: Skim the fat from the pan juices, reserving ¼ cup fat, add the wine to the pan, and deglaze the pan over moderately high heat, scraping up the brown bits clinging to the bottom and sides. Boil the mixture until it is reduced by half and reserve it. In a saucepan combine the reserved fat and the flour and cook the roux over moderately low heat, whisking, for 3 minutes. Add the stock and the reserved wine mixture in a stream, whisking, bring the mixture to a boil, whisking, and simmer the gravy, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Add the reserved cooked giblets and the neck meat, chopped fine, the Cognac, and salt and pepper to taste, simmer the gravy for 2 minutes, and transfer it to a heated pitcher or sauceboat.

Garnish the turkey with the sage leaves and the thyme sprigs. Serves 8.

Corn Bread for Stuffing

The following recipe yields a very dry corn bread that is best suited for stuffing.

1 cup all-purpose flour
1 1/3 cups yellow cornmeal
1 tablespoon double-acting baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup milk
1 large egg
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

In a bowl stir together the flour, the corn-meal, the baking powder, and the salt. In a small bowl whisk together the milk, the egg, and the butter, add the milk mixture to the cornmeal mixture, and stir the batter until it is just combined. Pour the batter into a greased 8-inch-square baking pan and bake a the corn bread in the middle of a preheated 425° F. oven for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the top is pale golden and a tester comes out clean. Let the corn bread cool in the pan for 5 minutes, invert it onto a rack, and let it cool completely.

Turkey Giblet Stock

the neck and giblets (excluding the liver) of a 12- to 14-pound turkey
4 cups canned chicken broth
1 rib of celery, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1 onion, quartered
1 bay leaf
½ teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled
1 teaspoon black peppercorns

In a large saucepan combine the neck and the giblets, the broth, the celery, the carrot, the onion, and 4 cups water and bring the liquid to a boil, skimming the froth. Add the bay leaf, the thyme, and the peppercorns and cook the mixture at a bare simmer for 2 hours, or until it is reduced to about 4 cups. Strain the stock through a fine sieve into a bowl, reserving the neck and giblets for the gravy. The stock may be made 2 days in advance, cooled completely, uncovered, and kept chilled in an airtight container or frozen. Makes about 4 cups.

Pot-Roasted Mediterranean Chicken

Servings: 4
Source: Fine Cooking 2/2002 pg 48
Part of this dish’s bright flavor comes from preserved lemons, which are fresh lemons that have been cured in salt. You can make your own (see Fine Cooking #30, p. 54), or buy them in grocery or specialty shops. We like to serve this with couscous mixed with garlic and parsley.

Ingredients
3-1/2 lb. whole chicken, rinsed and dried
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 sprigs fresh marjoram, 10 inches each, leaves stripped
7 sprigs fresh thyme, 4 inches each, leaves stripped
6 medium cloves garlic
5 Tbs. olive oil
1 preserved lemon (or 1 fresh lemon), sliced 1/8-inch thick
7 oz. pitted black olives, such as kalamata
9 oz. button mushrooms
1/2 cup (1-1/2 oz.) sun-dried tomatoes, softened in very hot water
1 medium onion, cut into eighths
3/4 cup dry white wine
Heat the oven to 425°F. Season the chicken inside and out with salt and pe

Directions
Heat the oven to 425°F. Season the chicken inside and out with salt and pepper. Using a mini food processor, a mortar and pestle, or a knife, mash together the marjoram, thyme, garlic, and 1 Tbs. of the olive oil to form a rough paste.

Slide your fingers between the chicken’s skin and flesh to loosen the skin on the breast, thigh, and leg areas. Rub the herb paste onto the flesh under the skin so it’s distributed as evenly as possible. Put half of the lemon slices, half of the olives, and one-third of the mushrooms in the cavity. Truss the bird, if you like, and put it, breast side up, in an enameled cast-iron pot or a Dutch oven. Drain the sun-dried tomatoes and arrange them around the chicken. Scatter the onion pieces and the remaining lemon slices, olives, and mushrooms around the chicken as well. Pour the white wine and the remaining 1/4 cup olive oil over the vegetables around the chicken. Roast, basting every 10 min. or so with the pan juices, until an instant-read thermometer in the thigh meat reads 170°F or the juices run clear, 1 to 1-1/4 hours; the vegetables should be tender.
3-1/2 lb. whole chicken, rinsed and dried

To serve, set the chicken on a carving board and spoon out the vegetables
To serve, set the chicken on a carving board and spoon out the vegetables from the cavity. Defat the pan juices and serve as a sauce, if you like. Remove any trussing, carve the bird, and serve on a platter with the lemons, olives, mushrooms, onions, and tomatoes arranged around the chicken.

Poached Halibut with Anchovy Caper Sauce

Servings: —

Ingredients
Halibut filets
white wine
anchovy filets
butter
capers
parsely

Directions
Poach Halibut in white wine (a Graves worked well)
When cooked, lift fish onto a plate and cover with lid
Add anchovy filets to poaching liquid (2/person seems to work well)
add butter to pan (1 Tbl/person)
Add drained capers (1 Tbl/person)

With fork or whisk, stir until anchovies have disintegrated. Add chopped parsely

Serves as many as you want.

My imagination

Pizza Toppings

Servings: —
Preheat: 450°
Source: Fine Cooking 9/2004

Ingredients

Directions
Provençal Onion Pizza

Pissaladière is a signature Provençal dish from Nice and environs, a pizza spread with a thick, sweet layer of onions that have been cooked slowly until they caramelize and garnished with olives and anchovies

2 tablespoons olive oil; 1 pounds sweet onions finely chopped; salt and freshly ground pepper; 2 minced garlic cloves; ½ bay leaf; 1 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves or½ teaspoon dried thyme; 1½ teaspoons capers drained, rinsed and mashed in a mortar and pestle or finely chopped; 12 anchovy fillets, soaked in water for five minutes, drained, rinsed and dried on paper towels; 12 Niçoise olives

1. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees, preferably with a pizza stone inside. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large, heavy nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring, until they begin to sizzle and soften, about three minutes. Add a generous pinch of salt and the garlic, bay leaf, thyme and pepper. Stir everything together, turn the heat to low, cover and cook slowly for 45 minutes, stirring often. The onions should melt down to a golden brown puree. If they begin to stick, add a few tablespoons of water. Stir in the capers, then taste and adjust seasonings. If there is liquid in the pan, cook over medium heat, uncovered, until it evaporates.

Spread the onions over the mozzarella. Cut the anchovies in half, and decorate the top of the crust with them, making twelve small X’s and placing an olive in the middle of each X. Place on top of the pizza stone, and bake 15 to 20 minutes, until the edges of the crust are brown and the onions are beginning to brown. Remove from the heat. Serve hot, warm or room temperature.

Yield: One 12- to 14 inch pizza.

Pizza with Arugula and Prociutto

Brush crust (fresh or Boboli pre-made, which works surprisingly well) lightly with olive oil. Spread fresh mozzarella over crust, sprinkle with dried oregano, and bake for 10 minutes at 450 degrees on a pizza stone until cheese is bubbly and brown, and crust is golden.

Remove from oven. Immediately cover with raw arugula (which heat of pizza will cook) and then torn-up proscuitto. With a cheese slicer, top with curls of real parmesan cheese (no shaker cheese!). Finally drizzle with truffle oil. Last ingredient is important. Eat. Goes well with red wine.

Roasted Vidalia Onions
Yields 3½ cups.

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
3 pounds Vidalia onions (about 5 or 6), sliced in half from stem to root
1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
½ teaspoon granulated sugar

Heat the oven to 400°F. Set a large ovenproof skillet (or a flameproof roasting dish) over medium-high heat for 30 seconds. Put in the olive oil and butter. When the butter foams or browns slightly, add the onions, cut side up. Cook until the onions brown slightly, about 3 minutes. Flip them so the cut sides face down and put the pan in the oven. Roast until the onions are very tender and dark golden brown, 50 to 60 minutes. Remove from the oven and sprinkle with the sherry vinegar, salt, thyme, and sugar. Let cool to room temperature and then slice into thin strips; pour any juices from the pan over them and mix them in.

Roasted Red Pepper Purée
Yields 3¼ cups.

6 red bell peppers
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon sweet paprika Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Position an oven rack 6 inches from the element and heat the broiler to high, or prepare a medium-hot fire on your gas or charcoal grill. Broil or grill the peppers, flipping every 1 to 2 minutes, until all sides are blistered, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and seal with plastic. Let cool for about 20 minutes and then peel off the skins, remove the stem, scoop out the seeds, and discard the peppers’juices. Don’t rinse the peppers at any point, as this will wash off much of their sweet flavor. Put the flesh in a food processor or a blender. Add the olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, and paprika. Purée on high until the mixture is smooth and shiny. Season with salt and pepper to taste. If you prefer a smoother purée, force the mixture through a fine sieve.

Olive Tapenade

Yields 1¼ cups.

I prefer oil-cured olives for this tapenade. They have an intense flavor, and they blend into a nice, smooth paste.

1 cup pitted Kalamata or Gaeta olives (preferably oil-cured)
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup diced red onion
4 anchovy fillets, rinsed and roughly chopped
3 tablespoons drained capers
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon Cognac
1 teaspoon cracked black pepper

Combine all the ingredients in a food processor and process until finely chopped and well combined.

Roasted Garlic

Yields about 2 cups.

6 heads garlic, unpeeled
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Heat the oven to 350°F. Cut off the tips of the garlic heads so you can see the cloves. Brush the cut sides of the heads with olive oil and set them, cut side down, on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast until the garlic is soft when squeezed, about 30 minutes. Let cool slightly. While the heads are still warm, squeeze each one over a small bowl; the roasted cloves should slide out easily.

Gorgonzola, Escarole, and Bell Pepper

1/4 lb escarole or spinach, washed, spun dry and chopped coarse (about 3 1/2 C loosely packed)
2 Tbs olive oil
1 tsp minced garlic
corn meal for sprinking the baking sheet
1/4 C crumbled Gorgonzola or other blue cheese
1 red bell pepper, cut into julieene strips
1/2 C finely diced whole-milk mozzarella
1Tbs minced fresh rosemary leaves or 1 tsp crumbled dried

In a heavy skillet cook the escarole in 1 tablespoon of the oil over moderate heat, stirring, for 1 to 2 minutes, or until it is wilted slightly, add the garlic and salt and pepper to taste, and cook the mixture, stirring, for 1 minute. Press water out of escarole/spinach mixture.

Halve the dough, form each half into a ball, and stretch each ball into a 7-inch round, making the rounds slightly thicker around the edges. Transfer the rounds to an oiled baking sheet (preferably black steel), sprinkled lightly with the cornmeal, and drizzle each round with ½ teaspoon of the remaining oil. Top the rounds evenly with the Gorgonzola, the escarole mixture, the bell pepper, and the mozzarella and sprinkle the rosemary over the topping. Drizzle the pizzette with the remaining 2 teaspoons oil and bake them on the bottom rack of a preheated 500°F. oven for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the crusts are golden and the mozzarella is bubbling.

Gourmet 2/87 pg 156

Tomato Pizza with Garlic and Smoked Gouda

Cooking spray 1 tablespoon cornmeal
1/2 cup (2 ounces) shredded smoked Gouda cheese
1 1/2 cups sliced plum tomato (about 4)
2 teaspoons olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh basil

Sprinkle cheese over pizza crust, leaving a 1-inch border. Arrange the tomato slices over cheese. Combine oil and garlic; sprinkle over tomato. Sprinkle with pepper. Bake at 450° for 15 minutes or until lightly browned. Top with basil.

Stuffed Squid Braised in White Wine

Servings: 2
Source: The Classic Italian Cookbook, Marcella Hazan, p. 232
recipeNotes: Menu Suggestions
If you wish to serve a vegetable side dish with the squid, the most suitable would be steamed potatoes. It is quite sufficient, however, to serve Zucchini Salad (page 415) or mixed greens afterwards. It can be preceded by Fettuccine with White Clam Sauce (page 135), or Risotto with Clams (page 192). 1 have found that Bresaola (page 47), with its tart, clean taste, makes an ideal prelude to this rather robust dish.

Calamari ripieni stufati al vino bianco

Ingredients
6 large squid (the sac should measure 4½ to 5 inches, not including the tentacles)

The stuffing:
1 tablespoon olive oil, approximately
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
½ teaspoon finely chopped garlic, or more to taste
1 whole egg, lightly beaten
2½ tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese
¼ cup fine, dry, unflavored bread crumbs
½ teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper, about 6 twists of the pepper mill

The braising liquid:
Olive oil, enough to come ¼ inch up the side of the skillet
4 whole cloves garlic, peeled
½ cup canned Italian tomatoes, coarsely chopped, with their juice
½ teaspoon finely chopped garlic
¼ cup dry white wine

Directions
Clean and prepare the squid as directed on page 230.
Chop the squid tentacles very fine. In a bowl, mix them with all the stuffing ingredients until you have a smooth, even mixture. There should be just enough olive oil in the mixture to make it slightly glossy. If it doesn’t have this light surface gloss, add more olive oil.
Divide the stuffing into 6 equal parts and spoon it into the squid sacs. (Do not overstuff, because the squid shrinks as it cooks and too much stuffing may cause it to burst.) (Sew up each opening tightly with darning needle and thread-and be sure to put the needle safely away as soon as you are finished using it or it may disappear into the sauce.) Previous is not necessary. Just don’t overstuff, so that the extra can squeeze out the top.
Choose a skillet large enough to hold the squid in a single layer and coat the bottom with just enough olive oil to come ¼ inch up the side of the pan. Heat the oil over medium-high heat and sauté the garlic cloves until golden brown. Discard the garlic and put in the stuffed squid. Brown the squid well on all sides, then add the chopped tomatoes with their juice, the chopped garlic, and the wine. Cover tightly and cook over low heat for 30 to 40 minutes. The squid is done when it feels tender at the pricking of a fork.
Remove the squid to a cutting board and allow to settle for a few minutes. Slice away just enough from the sewn-up end to remove the thread and cut the rest into slices ½ inch thick. Arrange the slices on a warm serving platter so that each squid sac is recomposed. Warm up the sauce in the skillet, pour over the sliced squid, and serve immediately.

Note
This dish can be prepared 4 or 5 days ahead of time and refrigerated. Warm it up as follows: Preheat the oven to 300°. Transfer the squid and the sauce to a bake-and-serve dish, add 2 to 3 tablespoons of water, and place in the middle level of the oven. Turn and baste the slices as they warm up, being careful that they don’t break up. Serve when warm.

If you have extra stuffing, which is likely, dredge in breadcrumbs, form into burgers, and saute in olive oil. Serve as left overs with above sauce if there is extra.

Vietnamese Braised Chicken with Ginger

Servings: 4-6
Source: Fine Cooking April/May 2003 page 32
recipeNotes: I left Vietnam thirty years ago, but I still cherish its foods. One of my favorites is a braised chicken and ginger dish that transforms a few simple ingredients (chicken thighs, ginger, fish sauce, and sugar) into a succulent, savory dish of sweet and salty chicken laced with fragrant strands of ginger. I use a classic Vietnamese braising method called kho (pronounced kaw) that uses caramelized sugar as the base for the braising liquid and foundation flavor plus fish sauce to complete the sweet-salty profile. You might think at first that chicken and sugar are an odd match, but just think of the sweet and salty play of flavors in a traditional barbecue sauce.

The caramel sauce for kho is easy to make by boiling Chinese brown sugar and water until the liquid is dark brown, almost the color of dark maple syrup. The caramel turns the chicken a rich, deep amber brown and supplies a mellow sweetness to the whole dish. In Vietnam, cooks pay close attention to the color of the kho. If the sugar doesn’t caramelize enough, the meat will pale (“”like a ghost’s eye””) and earn the cook a scolding. If it’s overcooked, the sauce will taste bitter.

The recipe a delicious example of kho, but this braising technique isn’t limited to chicken. The method can be used with almost any type of poultry, meat, or seafood, and the dish can be made spicy or not, depending on the region and on the cook’s taste. The South Vietnamese like to add hot chiles to their seafood kho, while the North Vietnamese prefer it milder and less salty.

When I was growing up in the northern city of Hanoi, meat and seafood were very expensive, so home cooks would use kho to add lots of flavor to a dish and to stretch the family’s food budget. Because meals always included a large pot of soup, plenty of rice, and several vegetable sautees, one chicken chopped into small pieces easily fed ten people.

I like to serve this with jasmine rice and sautéed broccoli. Skin-on chicken is traditional, but you can also use skinless chicken thighs or just spoon off the excess fat from the sauce before serving.

Ingredients
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons water
1/3 cup granulated white sugar
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium shallot, thinly sliced into rings (a scant ¼ cup)
1½ ounces fresh ginger, unpeeled and cut into matchsticks (about ½ cup)
3 pounds skin-on chicken thighs, excess fat trimmed, (optionally) cut in halves crosswise with a cleaver or by your butcher, and seasoned generously with kosher salt
3 tablespoons fish sauce
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon dried red chile flakes
3 scallions (whites and greens), thinly sliced into rings, for garnish

Directions
Have ready 1/2 cup water.

Put white sugar — without the water — in a 8-inch straightsided silver-bottom skillet over medium. Cook until it starts to melt at the edges and turn golden brown, about 5 minutes.

Reduce the heat to medium low and continue cooking, gently swirling the pan, until the bubbling caramel darkens to a reddish brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and, with your face averted to avoid steam and spatters, carefully pour the ½ cup water into the pan. The caramel may harden; if it does, set the pan over medium-high heat and stir until it dissolves. Stir the liquid to blend in the caramel and pour it into a heatproof measuring cup or bowl.

Wipe out the pan and heat the olive oil over medium high. Add the shallot and ginger and cook, stirring frequently, until they’re softened and starting to brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a bowl.

Set the skillet back over high heat. Add the seasoned chicken pieces and cook until they lose their raw color on the outside, about 2 minutes per side; the pan will be crowded and the chicken needn’t brown. Stir in the fish sauce, salt, pepper, chile flakes, and reserved caramel. Reduce the heat to medium and cook at a vigorous simmer, turning the chicken every few minutes, until the chicken is cooked through (cut into a piece to check), about 20 minutes. Remove chicken, separate fat from liquid, return chicken and liquid to pot. Stir in the reserved ginger and shallot and cook for 3 to 4 minutes to blend the flavors. Transfer to a serving plate and garnish with the scallion rings.