Category: Entrees – Pastas/Sauces

Cold Sesame Noodles

Servings: 6-8
Source: Feb/Mar 2000 Fine Cooking pg 49
Make the sesame pur6e several hours or a day ahead to let the flavors marry, but whisk in the water just before serving for a smooth, creamy consistency. The noodles can rest, cooked and tossed in oil, for half an hour, but don’t dress them until ready to serve.

Ingredients
FOR THE SESAME DRESSING:
3/4 cup plus 1 Tbsp (4 oz) sesame seeds
7 Tbsp peanut oil
3 med or 2 lg shallots (ab 2 oz total), sliced
1 lg clove garlic, finely chopped
1 Tbsp toasted sesame oil
2 Tbsp soy sauce
¼ cup rice vinegar
¼ cup sugar
¾ to 1 cup water (or less)
2 Tbsp chopped fresh cilantro leaves
FOR THE NOODLES:
12 oz fresh Chinese egg noodles (sometimes called wonton noodles)
3 Tbsp peanut oil 1 cup blanched snow peas, thinly sliced
1 red bell pepper, thinly sliced
1 cup thinly sliced daikon radish
1 cup fresh cilantro leaves
½ cup chopped peanuts
1 cup thinly sliced scallions (cut on the bias on a sharp angle)

Directions
Serves six as a main dish; eight to ten as a side dish.

To make the dressing-Heat the oven to 350°F. Put the sesame seeds on a baking sheet and toast them in the oven until golden brown and fragrant, 15 to 20 min. Be careful not to overcook them. Put the toasted seeds in a blender.

In a skillet, heat I Tbsp of the peanut oil over medium-low heat. Sauté the shallots and garlic until softened, 3 to 5 min. Set side to cool. Add the shallots, garlic, remaining 6 Tbsp peanut oil, sesame oil, soy sauce, rice vinegar, sugar, and chile paste to the sesame seeds in the blender. Blend on high speed just until a thick, rough paste forms, 2 to 3 min. Stop blending when most of the seeds have broken up and been pureed. After the paste forms, it will begin to get oily if you continue to pur6e it, as the seeds begin to give off their oil. Refrigerate the purse (for up to a day).

To cook and dress the noodles-Bring a large pot of unsalted water to a rolling boil. Gently fluff the noodles and add them to the water, stirring. Return the water to a boil and cook the noodles for just 1 0 to 30 seconds. (These tiny fresh noodles don’t need much cooking. If it takes a minute or more for the water to come back to a boil, the noodles will already be done.) Drain the noodles immediately and cool them under cold running water. Drain well. Put the cold noodles in a bowl and toss with the peanut oil.

To assemble-When ready to dress the noodles, remove the pur6e from the refrigerator. Drain off any oil that has gathered on the top. Whisk about ¾ cup water into the purse to thin it and to reach a creamy consistency; the sauce will lighten in color and become emulsified; add more water as needed. Add the chopped cilantro to the sauce.

In a large bowl, toss the noodles with about half the dressing. Add the snow peas, red pepper, and daikon, and toss to combine (using your hands is easiest). Add more dressing if you like. Put the noodles in large serving bowl or on individual plates. Garnish with cilantro leaves, chopped peanuts, and sliced scallions, or pass little bowls of the garnishes at the table.

Orecchiette Pasta with Brocolli Rabe

Servings: 6
Source: Bon Appétit May 1995
In Apulia, women still make pasta at home. Their favorite pasta shape – and the symbol of the region – is arecchiette, or “”little ears””. Called recchie or recchietelle in the local dialect, orecchiette is eaten just about daily, but is prepared a different way in almost every village. The sauces for this whimsical pasta are straightforward and usually contain vegetables, beans or legumes. This recipe is one of the most basic.

Ingredients
1/4 cup olive oil, including all of the oil in the anchovy tin
4 garlic cloves, minced
12 oz orecchiette or shell pasta
1 lb broccoli rabe, trimmed, chopped
1 entire 2oz tin of anchovies, chopped
parmesan cheese
chile flakes

Directions
Heat oil in heavy small saucepan over medium heat. Add garlic and sauté until beginning to color, about 1 minute. Remove from heat. Cook pasta in large pot of boiling salted water until beginning to soften, stirring occasionally, about 8 minutes. Add broccoli rabe and cook until pasta is just tender, but still firm to bite, about 3 minutes. Drain. Transfer pasta and broccoli rabe to large bowl. Pour garlic oil over. Add in chopped anchovies and pepper flakes to taste, and toss to coat. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with parmesan cheese individually.

Chiang Mai Curry Noodles

Servings: 4
Khao Soi-NORTHERN THAILAND

We’re told by friends in Chiang Mai, Thailand’s northern capital (see Chiang Mai, page 122), that this noodle dish is originally from the Shan State of Burma; others say it came with Muslim traders from Yunnan. Whatever the story, khao soi is now known as a Chiang Mai specialty. It’s an easy-to-make, very rich and delicious one-dish meal.

The broth that bathes the noodles is flavored with a little curry paste, turmeric, and garlic and is smooth and thick with coconut milk. Traditionally khao soi is made, as it is here, with beef; you can also make it with chicken.

The recipe calls for Chinese egg noodles, available from most Chinese groceries. They come in one-pound packages and are about lingaine width and pale yellow. The cooked noodles are placed in large individual bowls and the curry sauce is poured over them when the dish is served. Khao soi is usually topped with a small nest of crispy noodles, egg noodles that have been briefly deep-fried; they add a delightful contrasting texture. There is a small array of condiments traditionally served with khao soi; don’t worry if you don’t have pickled cabbage.

Ingredients
2 to 3 cloves garlic, peeled
1″” piece fresh turmeric, minced, or 1 tsp ground turmeric
I tsp salt, plus a pinch
1 Tbsp Red Curry Paste (page 210 or store-bought)
1 Tbsp peanut or vegetable oil
3 cup canned or fresh coconut milk (see page 315), with ½ cup of the thickest milk set aside
½ lb boneless flavorful beef (sirloin tip or trimmed stewing beef), cut into ½”” chunks
1 Tbsp sugar
1 cup water
3 Tbsp Thai fish sauce
1 Tbsp fresh lime juice
Peanut oil for deep-frying noodles (optional)
1 lb Chinese egg noodles (bamee)

TOPPINGS AND CONDIMENTS
Fried noodle nests (optional; see below)
½ cup coarsely chopped shallots
½ cup minced scallions
½ cup Pickled Cabbage, Thai Style (page 311 or store-bought)
1 lime, cut into wedges

Directions
Place the garlic in a mortar with the turmeric and the pinch of salt and pound to a paste. Alternatively, finely mince the garlic and whole turmeric, if using, and place the garlic and turmeric in a small bowl with the pinch of salt. Stir in the red curry paste and set aside.

Place a large heavy pot or wok over high heat. Add the 1 tablespoon oil and, when it is hot, toss in the curry paste mixture. Stir-fry for 30 seconds, then add the reserved ½ cup thick coconut milk and lower the heat to medium- high. Add the meat and sugar and cook, stirring frequently, for 4 to 5 minutes, until the meat has changed color all over. Add the remaining 2½ cups coconut milk, the water, fish sauce, and the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and cook at a strong simmer for about i o minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the lime juice. (The soup can be prepared up to an hour ahead, then reheated just before serving.)

Meanwhile, make the optional crispy noodles: Place a plate lined with several layers of paper towels by your stove. Place a large wok or heavy pot over high heat and add about 1 cup peanut oil, or 1/2 inch oil. When the oil is hot, drop in a strand of uncooked noodle to test the temperature. It should sizzle slightly as it falls to the bottom, then immediately puff and rise to the surface; adjust the heat slightly, if necessary. Toss a handful (about 1 cup) of noodles into the oil and watch as they puff up. Use a spatula or long tongs to turn them over and expose all of them to the hot oil. They will crisp up very quickly, in less than 1 minute. Lift the crisped noodles out of the oil and place on the paper towel-lined plate. Give the oil a moment to come back to temperature, and then repeat with a second handful of noodles. (The noodles can be fried ahead and left standing for several hours.)

To serve, bring a large pot of water to a vigorous boil over high heat. Drop in the remaining noodles (or all noodles, if you didn’t make crispy noodles), bring back to a boil, and cook until tender but not mushy, about 6 minutes. Drain well.

Divide the drained noodles among four large bowls. Ladle over the broth and meat. Top with crispy noodles, if you have them, and a pinch each of shallots and scallions. Serve with the remaining condiments set out in small bowls so guests can garnish their soup as they wish. Provide each guest with chopsticks and a large spoon.

Calabrese Pork Ragu with Fennel

Servings: 8
Source: Oct/Nov 2000 Fine Cooking
Pancetta, cured Italian bacon, is becoming available at many supermarkets; you’ll also find it at specialty stores and in Italian markets. Yields 8 cups of sauce, enough for about 1 lb. pasta; serves eight.

Ingredients
3 lb pork butt or shoulder (from about a 7 lb bone-in shoulder) or 3 lb packaged ground pork
1 lg yellow onion, chopped
2 Tbsp olive oil
6 oz pancetta, finely chopped
1 Tbsp finely chopped garlic
1 Tbsp whole fennel seeds, crushed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp sugar
1 tsp dried oregano
1 bay leaf
1 tsp dried red pepper flakes
1 cup dry white wine
2 cup canned crushed tomatoes
¾ cup tomato paste
1½ to 2 cup water
Unsalted butter,
½ Tbsp per serving; more to taste
1 lb pasta, cooked at dente
Freshly grated Parmesan (optional)

Directions
If using pork shoulder or butt, cut off any skin and discard, and then cut the meat off the bone into chunks about 1 inch or so. In a food processor, pulse the pork in batches, about five times for a few seconds each time; set aside.

Heat the olive oil in a large heavy-based pot over medium heat. Add the pancetta and onions and saute, stirring occasionally, until browned, 12 to 15 min. Add the garlic and crushed fennel and stir for about 2 min. Transfer to a large bowl.

Increase the heat to medium high. In the same pot, add just enough of the ground pork to make one layer. If using packaged ground meat, don’t crumble it; instead, break it into pieces (about 1 inch) to brown. Season with salt and pepper. Brown the meat all over, stirring occasionally, 3 to 5 min. Transfer the first batch of meat to the bowl and sear the remaining pork in batches, if necessary; add more olive oil as needed.

Return all the seared pork and the onion mixture to the pot. Add the sugar, oregano, bay leaf, red pepper, 2 tsp salt, and 1 ½ tsp pepper, and stir to combine. Pour in the wine to degiaze the pot, stirring up any browned bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Let the wine reduce by at least half. Add the tomato purée and tomato paste and bring the sauce to a boil (the mixture will be thick).

Add ½ cup of the water, reduce the heat, and simmer the sauce, stirring occasionsly, for 1½ to 2 hours. As it cooks, juices will evaporate; add the remaining water periodically, letting it reduce after each addition, to total 1½ to 2 cups. After 1½ hours, the meat should be tender and the flavors melded. Remove and discard the bay leaf. Immediately before serving, whisk ½ Tbsp butter per serving into the sauce and toss with the pasta. Serve sprinkled with Parmesan, if you like.