Tamales Nortenos

Servings: —
recipeNotes: Tamales are made with masa (corn dough) bought at tortillerfas. They are also prepared the modern way: with masa made with masa barina (treated corn flour purchased at supermarkets) and reconstituted with water. Masa is beaten with shortening until fluffy, then spread on aromatic leaves and topped with a filling. The leaves are folded and the packages steamed. Tamales made with coarse masa and wrapped in dried corn husks are the tamales of choice in northern Mexico.

The difference between corn dough for tortillas and corn dough for tamales is texture. Tortillas are made from finely ground corn dough so the delicate pancakes can be thinly pressed. Tamales are made with two masa grinds: Tamales wrapped in banana leaves (southern-style) are made with the same finely ground corn dough as tortillas. After they are steamed, the dough texture is smooth and delicate, similar to that of thick pasta. Tamales wrapped in corn husks (northern-style) are made with coarsely ground corn dough, so after the tamales steam, they have the fluffy, coarse texture of muffins. Traditional tamales have freshly rendered lard beaten into the dough for taste and fluffiness. Substitute butter. Vegetable shortening works fine, but add salsa or herbs to the shortening for great flavor. Also, a long mixing time ensures fluffy tamales. Tamales are just as heavenly refrigerated and reheated as they are fresh. They also freeze successfully. Reheat frozen tamales for about 20 minutes in a steamer. Leftovers, with wrappings removed, sliced and pan sauteed until crispy brown, are nothing’short of one of life’s small miracles.

Make tamales as spicy as you wish by the type of chile you add to the filling. Serve tamales with a hot table salsa and Crema (page 49).

Yield.- about 25 medium tamales
Tamales made with Coarsely Ground Masa and Wrapped in Husks (Tamales Norteños)

Yields 25 medium tamales

Ingredients
For the corn husks:
1 8-ounce package dried corn husks (found in many supermarkets, Latino markets, or by mail order)
1. Remove the largest dried leaves and rinse. Don’t open the centers of the husks or your sink will be full of corn silk. Cover the leaves with boiling water in a large pot and soak for 1 hour, or until they are pliable. Weight the leaves down with a water-filled bowl to keep them submerged
2. Use only the largest leaves for wrapping tamales-there are more than enough in a package. Tear smaller leaves into strips to use as ribbons to tie tamales closed, if desired.

For the dough:
1 1/3 cups butter or vegetable shortening

2 pounds (about 4 cups) coarsely ground masa from a tortilleria (not masa preparada because it has fat incorporated), or masa made from 4 cups coarse mesa harina and 4 cups Vegetable Broth (page 90) or warm water (2 pounds masa makes about 25 medium sized tamales)

2 teaspoons baking powder

3 Tablespoons dried Mexican oregano

1 Tablespoon kosher salt

For the filling:

Prepare a filling before beginning the dough. The list is almost limitless-let your imagination run wild after you’ve tried a few basics such as a simple smear of Adobo (page 43). Fresh corn kernels are sensational with glazed onions for an easy, nonspicy filling; tomatillo salsa and cheese is classic;

nopales or green beans and roasted garlic is extraordinary, with Mexican oregano mixed into the masa. Chopped grilled vegetables make a fabulous stuffing; a piece of Monterey Jack cheese and a strip of toasted fresh chile is another; chopped olives, capers, raisins, and chipotle chile salsa; black beans seasoned with hoja Santa or epazote; toasted chile strips and garlic slices caramelized in olive oil; or saut6ed wild mushrooms with Basic Cooked Tomatillo Salsa (page 34) are a few suggestions.

1. Whip the butter or vegetable shortening until it is fluffy and aerated, 5 minutes with a mixer, three times as long by hand with fast folding motions.
2. Add the masa, a handful at a time, with the baking powder, oregano, and salt. Mix well and continue to mix. If the mixture becomes too thick, add up to 1/2 cup tepid broth or water. This step takes at least io minutes; you will feel the masa become light and fluffy with a spongy texture. The prepared masa is now ready to be spread onto leaves and topped with a filling.

Directions
To assemble:

1. Place a large, soaked husk on the table (sides curling inward) and, with a spatula, smear 1/4 to X cup masa over the wide end from side to side and about halfway to the pointed end. Many people “”glue”” 2 husks together with a smear of masa to increase the tamale size. (Hey, it’s okay to be messy-they’ll still be delicious.)
2. Place a generous tablespoon of filling in the center of the masa toward the wide end. Fold the right edge over to the center, then roll toward the left third. Flap the narrow end over to the wide end, leaving the end open (this is the easiest tamale-making system). For other tamale shapes, you may tie the middle, end (or ends, depending on the shape you choose) with ribbons of husk from the smaller soaked leaves cut into 1/4-inch strips. For an envelope shape: Place masa and filling on the center of a husk, leaving the edges clean; fold the right side to the center, then the left side to the center; fold each end to the center, overlapping, and tie with a husk ribbon around the middle. Rolled tamales look good: Spread the masa and filling in the center of a husk, then roll up the long way. Tie both ends. Place finished tamales in a bowl, open ends up, until ready to steam.

To set up a steamer:

Almost every tamale in Mexico is cooked by steaming.
Tamalerias are large metal steamers made especially for cooking tamales. They look like tall stockpots. A shelf with holes for stacking tamales is placed on the bottom over an inch or two of boiling water. An opening under the shelf, on the outside of the pot, is for adding additional boiling water so the lid doesn’t have to be removed during the cooking process. Some alternatives, if you have no tamaleria: an Asian bamboo steamer; stainless steel vegetable steamer, opened flat, in a wide pot; or three water-filled tunafish cans or custard cups at the bottom of a wide pot with a nonfragile plate on top, with enough room for steam to escape along the sides. In any metal steamer, drop a few coins in the wateryou know there’s water in a metal steamer as long as you can hear the coins rattling.

To steam:
1. Pour water into the steamer. Be sure the water does not touch the rack. Lay any remaining husks on the rack to keep the tamales from sticking to it. If the tamale ends are open, arrange them vertically in the steamer so the masa doesn’t fall out. Arrange other tamales horizontally and overlapping so steam can pass around each.
2. Cover the steamer tightly and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and steam for about 1 hour. Check the water level after 45 minutes, but do not remove the cover before then. Add boiling water if necessary.
3. Remove a tamale from the center of the steamer to see if it is done-the masa should pull away from the husk easily and be firm. Let the tamales rest for io minutes before serving. As with all tamales, peel away and discard the husks, then eat.

Strawberry Vinegar

Servings: —
Source: Best of Gourmet – 1990 Edition (Condé Nast)
Make your own strawberry vinegar at home for use on fruits, salads, or in vinaigrette. The vinegar keeps in a dark, cool place indefinitely.

Ingredients
INGREDIENTS:
1 pint strawberries, hulled and sliced
2 cups white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar

Directions
PREPARATION:
In a bowl stir together the strawberries, the vinegar, and the sugar and let the mixture stand, covered, at room temperature for 2 days.

Discard the strawberries with a slotted spoon and strain the vinegar through a fine sieve lined with a triple thickness of rinsed and squeezed cheesecloth into a bowl. Transfer the vinegar to a bottle with a tight-fitting lid and use it in salad dressings and marinades. The vinegar keeps in a dark, cool place indefinitely.

Strawberry Vin Santo Sauce

Servings: —
Source: Bon Appétit
May 2000
*Vin Santo is an Italian dessert wine sold at some liquor stores and some specialty foods stores.

Ingredients
1 pound fresh strawberries, hulled, quartered (about 4 cups)
1/3 cup sugar
2 tablespoons Vin Santo,* Muscat wine or cream Sherry
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon (packed) grated lemon peel 1 pound fresh strawberries, hulled, quartered (about 4 cups)
1/3 cup sugar
2 tablespoons Vin Santo,* Muscat wine or cream Sherry
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon (packed) grated lemon peel

Directions
Puree 1 pound strawberries in processor. Transfer puree to heavy large saucepan. Mix in sugar, Vin Santo, vanilla extract and grated lemon peel. Simmer over medium-low heat until sauce is reduced to 2 cups, stirring often, about 15 minutes. Cool. (Sauce can be prepared 2 days ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)

Makes 2 cups

Strawberry Shortcakes with Balsamic and Black Pepper Syrup

Servings: 8
Source: Bon appetit 6/2010
All-American strawberry shortcake goes modern with a hit of balsamic vinegar and a dash of black pepper. Making the biscuits square instead of round is quicker and easier than using a biscuit cutter. Plus, you won’t have to reroll the dough, which can make the biscuits tough.

Ingredients
Biscuits

* 2 cups unbleached all purpose flour
* 5 tablespoons sugar, divided
* 2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
* 1/4 teaspoon salt
* 1/2 cup (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
* 1 cup chilled heavy whipping cream
* 1 large egg, beaten to blend (for glaze)

Filling

* 2 pounds fresh strawberries (about 8 cups), hulled, quartered if small, sliced if large
* 6 tablespoons sugar, divided
* 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
* 1 large pinch of freshly ground black pepper
* 1 cup chilled heavy whipping cream
* 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Directions
Preparation
Biscuits

Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 425°F. Line baking sheet with parchment paper. Place flour, 4 tablespoons sugar, baking powder, and salt in processor. Using on/off turns, process to blend. Add butter; cut in using on/off turns until butter resembles large peas, about five 1-second intervals. Add cream; using on/off turns, process until moist clumps form. Transfer dough to lightly floured work surface. Gather dough into ball; flatten into 8×4-inch rectangle (about 1 1/4 inches thick). Cut lengthwise in half, then crosswise into 4 equal strips, forming 8 square biscuits. Transfer biscuits to prepared baking sheet and chill 20 minutes. DO AHEAD Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and keep chilled.

Brush top of biscuits with egg glaze; sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon sugar. Bake until biscuits are golden brown and tester inserted horizontally comes out clean, about 15 minutes. Transfer to rack and cool. DO AHEAD Can be made 8 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature.

Filling
Mix strawberries, 5 tablespoons sugar, vinegar, and black pepper in medium bowl. Let macerate 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Using electric mixer, beat cream, vanilla, and remaining 1 tablespoon sugar in another medium bowl until peaks form.
Cut biscuits horizontally in half. Place bottom half of each biscuit, cut side up, on plate. Using slotted spoon, divide strawberries among biscuits. Spoon dollop of whipped cream atop strawberries. Cover each with top half of biscuit. Drizzle some of juices from strawberries around shortcakes.

Stir-Fried Burdock

Servings: —
Source: Coke Farms

Ingredients
2-3 burdock roots
1TB peanut oil
1TB sesame seeds
1-2 TB soy sauce
1 pinch of chili flakes
1 tsp toasted sesame oil
Dash of sake (optional)

Directions
Scrub roots and scrape skin with a sharp knife under running water. Keep burdock in water to keep from turning brown. Cut into 2″” sections and cut into match sticks. Keep cut pieces in water as you cut.

Heat peanut oil in wok on medium heat. When a bead of water evaporates on contact, add cut burdock, and stir-fry for about 5 minutes or until tender, but still firm. Add sesame seeds and chili flakes. Continue cooking for another minute, then add sesame oil and soy sauce.

Burdock is commonly used in Japanese cuisine and macrobiotic cooking. Burdock is very nutritious and has an earthy, nutty flavor. May also be used as an addition in soups and stews.

Spinach with Pine Nuts & Raisins

Servings: 6
Source: Fine Cooking August/September 2001 pg 39
Use baby spinach when it’s available; it’s sweeter, less gritty, easier to clean, and there’s no need to trim the stems.

Ingredients
2½ lb. fresh spinach, stems trimmed, leaves rinsed
½ tsp. coarse salt or sea salt
½ cup water
¼ cup fruity extra-virgin olive oil; more to taste
½ medium onion, finely chopped
3 Tbs. golden raisins
3 Tbs. pine nuts
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Directions
Put the spinach leaves in a large pot with a tight fitting lid (if all the spinach doesn’t fit, add the rest once it starts cooking and collapsing). Add the salt and water and cook, covered, on medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the spinach is wilted, 2 or 3 min. Drain in a colander, let cool, and squeeze out the liquid with your hands. You’ll end up with about 2 cups cooked spinach.

Heat 3 Tbs. of the olive oil in a large sauté pan set over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until it begins to turn golden, about 5 min. Stir in the raisins and cook for another 3 to 4 min. Stir in the pine nuts and sauté until they’re lightly toasted, about 3 min. add the spinach and cook until any excess liquid has evaporated. Season generously with salt and pepper and drizzle each serving (or the whole serving platter) with the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil.

Spinach & Grilled Radicchio Salad

Servings: 6-8
Source: Fine Cooking, September 2006

Ingredients
¾ to 1 lb radicchio (2 sm or 1 large), trimmed and quartered through the core
7 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 oz baby spinach (ab 6 cups), rinsed well and spun dry
3½ to 4 oz shaved Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano (ab 1 cup)
2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar

Directions
Heat a gas grill to medium or prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire.

Brush the radicchio with 2 tablespoons of the oil and sprinkle with ¾ teaspoon kosher salt. Grill the radicchio (covered if using a gas grill) until it browns and chars lightly in spots on one side, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip and grill until the other side is browned and the radicchio is softened and wilting, 3 to 4 minutes. (If using a large radicchio, you may need to grill it on a third side for a few more minutes to fully soften it.)

Let the radicchio cool on a cutting board for a couple of minutes, and then trim off the cores and coarsely chop. In a serving bowl, toss the radicchio with the spinach and the cheese.

Just before serving, toss the salad with the remaining 5 tablespoons oil and the vinegar and season salt and pepper to taste.

Spaghetti with Garlic and Oil

Servings: 4
Source: Classic Italian Cooking by Marcella Hazan
This is one of the easiest, quickest, and tastiest pasta dishes you can prepare. Its humble origins are in the shanty towns of Rome, but it is now a universal favorite, especially among Rome’s chic insomniacs, who depend upon a wee hours’ spaghettata to see them through the night until their early-morning bedtime.

In most versions, crushed garlic cloves are sautéed in olive oil until they are nearly black. They are then discarded and the spaghetti is seasoned with the flavored oil. In this recipe the garlic is chopped, sautéed lightly, and left in the oil to be added to the spaghetti. The result is a fuller yet milder taste of garlic, with no trace of bitterness.

Ingredients
½ cup plus I tablespoon olive oil
2 teaspoons very finely chopped garlic
2 teaspoon salt
1 pound spaghetti or spaghettini
Freshly ground pepper, 6 to 8 twists of the mill
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
hot pepper flakes (optional)
8 oz jumbo shrimp (optional)

Directions
The sauce can be prepared in the time it takes to bring the water for the spaghetti to a boil. When you’ve turned on the heat under the water, put the 1/2 cup oil, the garlic, and salt in a very small saucepan. Sauté the garlic over very low heat, stirring frequently, until it slowly becomes a rich, golden color.

Drop the spaghetti into the boiling salted water and cook until tender but al dente, very firm to the bite. Drain immediately, transfer to a warm bowl, and add the oil and garlic sauce. Toss rapidly, coating all the strands, adding pepper and parsley and hot pepper flakes to taste. Mix the remaining tablespoon of olive oil into the spaghetti and serve. Serve with shrimp if desired.

Spaghetti Alla Carbonara

Servings: 2
Source: Fine Cooking May 2008, pp. 57
If you’d like to make this pasta for four people, double the recipe, but transfer the pasta back into the pot used for cooking it and then toss it with the eggs and cheese.

Ingredients
Kosher salt
1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
4 oz. fatty pancetta or guanciale, sliced ¼ inch thick and cut into 1 ½ x ½-inch rectangles
Freshly ground black pepper
½ cup diced red onion
2 large eggs, chilled
½ lb. imported dried spaghetti (
½ cup lightly packed, freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Directions
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat.

In a 10-inch skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the pancetta or guanciale and ½ tsp. pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden and beginning to crisp, about 5 minutes. (If the meat is browning too quickly, reduce the heat to medium low.) Add the onion and continue to cook until it’s soft and golden and the meat is crisp, about 5 minutes more.

Remove the pan from the heat and carefully spoon off all but about 2 Tbs. of the fat. Add 1 Tbs. water to the pan and scrape any brown bits from the bottom.

Beat the eggs in a small bowl until smooth and set aside.

Cook the spaghetti in the boiling water4ecording to package directions until it’s just shy of al dente. Reserve 1/4 cup of the cooking water and drain the spaghetti. Transfer the spaghetti to the skillet, set it over medium heat, and toss with tongs to coat the spaghetti with the fat and finish cooking to al dente, about 1 minute. If the pasta is too dry or starts to stick to the bottom of the pan, add 1 or 2 tsp. of the pasta water. You want the bottom of the pan to be just barely wet. If the pan is too dry, the eggs will scramble when you add them.

Remove the skillet from the heat and pour the eggs over the pasta, tossing quickly and continuously until the eggs thicken and turn to the consistency of a thin custard, 30 seconds to 1 minute. (Tossing constantly is important, as it prevents the eggs from scrambling.)

The sauce should be smooth and creamy, and it should cling to the pasta. Add a little more pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce. Stir in the Parmigiano and season to taste with salt and pepper (you may not need additional salt, as both guanciale and pancetta can be very salty). Serve immediately.

Snapper and Mango with Green Peppercorn Sauce

Servings: 4
Source: Gourmet, 7/81 pg 32

Ingredients

Directions
Rub two 1½ -pound snapper fillets with 2 teaspoons lime juice and dust them with 3 tablespoons flour seasoned with ¼ teaspoon salt and ? teaspoon white pepper. In a skillet heat 3 tablespoons unsalted butter and 1 tablespoon olive oil over moderately high heat until it is hot, add the snapper, and cook it for 4 to 5 minutes on each side, or until it just flakes when tested with a fork. Transfer the snapper with a slotted spatula to a platter and keep it warm.

In a skillet cook I large mango, peeled and sliced thin, in 2 tablespoons unsalted butter over moderate heat for 2 minutes and arrange it decoratively over the snapper. In the skillet cook 1 tablespoon drained whole green peppercorns or capers packed in water (available at specialty foods shops) and 2 teaspoons drained and bruised green peppercorns packed in water in 1 tablespoon unsalted butter for 1 minute. Add ½ cup heavy cream and simmer the mixture for 3 minutes. Spoon the sauce over the snapper and mango and garnish the dish with sprigs of watercress.