Tag: asian

Cold Sesame Noodles

Servings: 6-8
Source: Feb/Mar 2000 Fine Cooking pg 49
Make the sesame pur6e several hours or a day ahead to let the flavors marry, but whisk in the water just before serving for a smooth, creamy consistency. The noodles can rest, cooked and tossed in oil, for half an hour, but don’t dress them until ready to serve.

Ingredients
FOR THE SESAME DRESSING:
3/4 cup plus 1 Tbsp (4 oz) sesame seeds
7 Tbsp peanut oil
3 med or 2 lg shallots (ab 2 oz total), sliced
1 lg clove garlic, finely chopped
1 Tbsp toasted sesame oil
2 Tbsp soy sauce
¼ cup rice vinegar
¼ cup sugar
¾ to 1 cup water (or less)
2 Tbsp chopped fresh cilantro leaves
FOR THE NOODLES:
12 oz fresh Chinese egg noodles (sometimes called wonton noodles)
3 Tbsp peanut oil 1 cup blanched snow peas, thinly sliced
1 red bell pepper, thinly sliced
1 cup thinly sliced daikon radish
1 cup fresh cilantro leaves
½ cup chopped peanuts
1 cup thinly sliced scallions (cut on the bias on a sharp angle)

Directions
Serves six as a main dish; eight to ten as a side dish.

To make the dressing-Heat the oven to 350°F. Put the sesame seeds on a baking sheet and toast them in the oven until golden brown and fragrant, 15 to 20 min. Be careful not to overcook them. Put the toasted seeds in a blender.

In a skillet, heat I Tbsp of the peanut oil over medium-low heat. Sauté the shallots and garlic until softened, 3 to 5 min. Set side to cool. Add the shallots, garlic, remaining 6 Tbsp peanut oil, sesame oil, soy sauce, rice vinegar, sugar, and chile paste to the sesame seeds in the blender. Blend on high speed just until a thick, rough paste forms, 2 to 3 min. Stop blending when most of the seeds have broken up and been pureed. After the paste forms, it will begin to get oily if you continue to pur6e it, as the seeds begin to give off their oil. Refrigerate the purse (for up to a day).

To cook and dress the noodles-Bring a large pot of unsalted water to a rolling boil. Gently fluff the noodles and add them to the water, stirring. Return the water to a boil and cook the noodles for just 1 0 to 30 seconds. (These tiny fresh noodles don’t need much cooking. If it takes a minute or more for the water to come back to a boil, the noodles will already be done.) Drain the noodles immediately and cool them under cold running water. Drain well. Put the cold noodles in a bowl and toss with the peanut oil.

To assemble-When ready to dress the noodles, remove the pur6e from the refrigerator. Drain off any oil that has gathered on the top. Whisk about ¾ cup water into the purse to thin it and to reach a creamy consistency; the sauce will lighten in color and become emulsified; add more water as needed. Add the chopped cilantro to the sauce.

In a large bowl, toss the noodles with about half the dressing. Add the snow peas, red pepper, and daikon, and toss to combine (using your hands is easiest). Add more dressing if you like. Put the noodles in large serving bowl or on individual plates. Garnish with cilantro leaves, chopped peanuts, and sliced scallions, or pass little bowls of the garnishes at the table.

Pickled Cabbage, Thai Style

Servings: —
recipeNotes: NOTE: You can make a quick and easy stir-fry with pickled cabbage. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a wok and toss in 3 dried red chilies and 1 tablespoon minced garlic. Then the garlic begins to change color, toss in 2 cups drained, coarsely chopped cabbage. Stir-fry for about 2 minutes, until wilting, then season with 1 tablespoon Thai or Vietnamese fish sauce or 7 teaspoon salt. Stir briefly, turn out onto a plate, and serve. This makes an excellent foil for mild or rich dishes, such as coconut milk-based curries or soups. In Issaan it’s called pak som pad, in Laos, khoua Pak
pak kat dong THAILAND]

Unlike many pickles, this slightly sweet, intense version of pickled cabbage doesn’t make you wait for weeks. Two days after it goes into the jars, it’s ready, still slightly crunchy and bursting with flavor. Over time, the cabbage softens and the flavors mellow. This makes a good addition to a vegetable plate or, finely chopped, a kind of chutney/pickle condiment to accompany any rice or noodle meal. Or stir-fry it as an accompaniment for a rice meal (see Note.)

Ingredients
1 medium Savoy cabbage (about 21/2 pounds), or 21/2 pounds Swatow mustard greens
2 cups rice vinegar
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons kosher salt

Directions
Peel off and discard any discolored leaves, then cut the cabbage lengthwise in half. Cut out the core and discard. Cut the cabbage into thin wedges, then cut crosswise into approximately 2 -inch pieces. (If using the greens, cut into roughly rectangular pieces about I by 2 inches.) Spread out on a tray or basket in a warm or sunny place, cover loosely with a white cotton cloth, and let wilt for 6 to 12 hours.

Place the remaining ingredients in a nonreactive pot and bring to a boil. Let cool to room temperature.

Meanwhile, sterilize two I -pint glass canning jars and their lids. Stuff the cabbage into the sterile jars, using sterile tongs. Pour the vinegar mixture over to cover, then seal tightly. Let stand for 2 days at room temperature (or, if the weather is very hot, in a cool place) before using. Store in the refrigerator. Use within 3 weeks.

Makes 2 pints pickled cabbage

Chiang Mai Curry Noodles

Servings: 4
Khao Soi-NORTHERN THAILAND

We’re told by friends in Chiang Mai, Thailand’s northern capital (see Chiang Mai, page 122), that this noodle dish is originally from the Shan State of Burma; others say it came with Muslim traders from Yunnan. Whatever the story, khao soi is now known as a Chiang Mai specialty. It’s an easy-to-make, very rich and delicious one-dish meal.

The broth that bathes the noodles is flavored with a little curry paste, turmeric, and garlic and is smooth and thick with coconut milk. Traditionally khao soi is made, as it is here, with beef; you can also make it with chicken.

The recipe calls for Chinese egg noodles, available from most Chinese groceries. They come in one-pound packages and are about lingaine width and pale yellow. The cooked noodles are placed in large individual bowls and the curry sauce is poured over them when the dish is served. Khao soi is usually topped with a small nest of crispy noodles, egg noodles that have been briefly deep-fried; they add a delightful contrasting texture. There is a small array of condiments traditionally served with khao soi; don’t worry if you don’t have pickled cabbage.

Ingredients
2 to 3 cloves garlic, peeled
1″” piece fresh turmeric, minced, or 1 tsp ground turmeric
I tsp salt, plus a pinch
1 Tbsp Red Curry Paste (page 210 or store-bought)
1 Tbsp peanut or vegetable oil
3 cup canned or fresh coconut milk (see page 315), with ½ cup of the thickest milk set aside
½ lb boneless flavorful beef (sirloin tip or trimmed stewing beef), cut into ½”” chunks
1 Tbsp sugar
1 cup water
3 Tbsp Thai fish sauce
1 Tbsp fresh lime juice
Peanut oil for deep-frying noodles (optional)
1 lb Chinese egg noodles (bamee)

TOPPINGS AND CONDIMENTS
Fried noodle nests (optional; see below)
½ cup coarsely chopped shallots
½ cup minced scallions
½ cup Pickled Cabbage, Thai Style (page 311 or store-bought)
1 lime, cut into wedges

Directions
Place the garlic in a mortar with the turmeric and the pinch of salt and pound to a paste. Alternatively, finely mince the garlic and whole turmeric, if using, and place the garlic and turmeric in a small bowl with the pinch of salt. Stir in the red curry paste and set aside.

Place a large heavy pot or wok over high heat. Add the 1 tablespoon oil and, when it is hot, toss in the curry paste mixture. Stir-fry for 30 seconds, then add the reserved ½ cup thick coconut milk and lower the heat to medium- high. Add the meat and sugar and cook, stirring frequently, for 4 to 5 minutes, until the meat has changed color all over. Add the remaining 2½ cups coconut milk, the water, fish sauce, and the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and cook at a strong simmer for about i o minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the lime juice. (The soup can be prepared up to an hour ahead, then reheated just before serving.)

Meanwhile, make the optional crispy noodles: Place a plate lined with several layers of paper towels by your stove. Place a large wok or heavy pot over high heat and add about 1 cup peanut oil, or 1/2 inch oil. When the oil is hot, drop in a strand of uncooked noodle to test the temperature. It should sizzle slightly as it falls to the bottom, then immediately puff and rise to the surface; adjust the heat slightly, if necessary. Toss a handful (about 1 cup) of noodles into the oil and watch as they puff up. Use a spatula or long tongs to turn them over and expose all of them to the hot oil. They will crisp up very quickly, in less than 1 minute. Lift the crisped noodles out of the oil and place on the paper towel-lined plate. Give the oil a moment to come back to temperature, and then repeat with a second handful of noodles. (The noodles can be fried ahead and left standing for several hours.)

To serve, bring a large pot of water to a vigorous boil over high heat. Drop in the remaining noodles (or all noodles, if you didn’t make crispy noodles), bring back to a boil, and cook until tender but not mushy, about 6 minutes. Drain well.

Divide the drained noodles among four large bowls. Ladle over the broth and meat. Top with crispy noodles, if you have them, and a pinch each of shallots and scallions. Serve with the remaining condiments set out in small bowls so guests can garnish their soup as they wish. Provide each guest with chopsticks and a large spoon.