Pickled Cabbage, Thai Style

Servings: —
recipeNotes: NOTE: You can make a quick and easy stir-fry with pickled cabbage. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a wok and toss in 3 dried red chilies and 1 tablespoon minced garlic. Then the garlic begins to change color, toss in 2 cups drained, coarsely chopped cabbage. Stir-fry for about 2 minutes, until wilting, then season with 1 tablespoon Thai or Vietnamese fish sauce or 7 teaspoon salt. Stir briefly, turn out onto a plate, and serve. This makes an excellent foil for mild or rich dishes, such as coconut milk-based curries or soups. In Issaan it’s called pak som pad, in Laos, khoua Pak
pak kat dong THAILAND]

Unlike many pickles, this slightly sweet, intense version of pickled cabbage doesn’t make you wait for weeks. Two days after it goes into the jars, it’s ready, still slightly crunchy and bursting with flavor. Over time, the cabbage softens and the flavors mellow. This makes a good addition to a vegetable plate or, finely chopped, a kind of chutney/pickle condiment to accompany any rice or noodle meal. Or stir-fry it as an accompaniment for a rice meal (see Note.)

Ingredients
1 medium Savoy cabbage (about 21/2 pounds), or 21/2 pounds Swatow mustard greens
2 cups rice vinegar
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons kosher salt

Directions
Peel off and discard any discolored leaves, then cut the cabbage lengthwise in half. Cut out the core and discard. Cut the cabbage into thin wedges, then cut crosswise into approximately 2 -inch pieces. (If using the greens, cut into roughly rectangular pieces about I by 2 inches.) Spread out on a tray or basket in a warm or sunny place, cover loosely with a white cotton cloth, and let wilt for 6 to 12 hours.

Place the remaining ingredients in a nonreactive pot and bring to a boil. Let cool to room temperature.

Meanwhile, sterilize two I -pint glass canning jars and their lids. Stuff the cabbage into the sterile jars, using sterile tongs. Pour the vinegar mixture over to cover, then seal tightly. Let stand for 2 days at room temperature (or, if the weather is very hot, in a cool place) before using. Store in the refrigerator. Use within 3 weeks.

Makes 2 pints pickled cabbage

Chiang Mai Curry Noodles

Servings: 4
Khao Soi-NORTHERN THAILAND

We’re told by friends in Chiang Mai, Thailand’s northern capital (see Chiang Mai, page 122), that this noodle dish is originally from the Shan State of Burma; others say it came with Muslim traders from Yunnan. Whatever the story, khao soi is now known as a Chiang Mai specialty. It’s an easy-to-make, very rich and delicious one-dish meal.

The broth that bathes the noodles is flavored with a little curry paste, turmeric, and garlic and is smooth and thick with coconut milk. Traditionally khao soi is made, as it is here, with beef; you can also make it with chicken.

The recipe calls for Chinese egg noodles, available from most Chinese groceries. They come in one-pound packages and are about lingaine width and pale yellow. The cooked noodles are placed in large individual bowls and the curry sauce is poured over them when the dish is served. Khao soi is usually topped with a small nest of crispy noodles, egg noodles that have been briefly deep-fried; they add a delightful contrasting texture. There is a small array of condiments traditionally served with khao soi; don’t worry if you don’t have pickled cabbage.

Ingredients
2 to 3 cloves garlic, peeled
1″” piece fresh turmeric, minced, or 1 tsp ground turmeric
I tsp salt, plus a pinch
1 Tbsp Red Curry Paste (page 210 or store-bought)
1 Tbsp peanut or vegetable oil
3 cup canned or fresh coconut milk (see page 315), with ½ cup of the thickest milk set aside
½ lb boneless flavorful beef (sirloin tip or trimmed stewing beef), cut into ½”” chunks
1 Tbsp sugar
1 cup water
3 Tbsp Thai fish sauce
1 Tbsp fresh lime juice
Peanut oil for deep-frying noodles (optional)
1 lb Chinese egg noodles (bamee)

TOPPINGS AND CONDIMENTS
Fried noodle nests (optional; see below)
½ cup coarsely chopped shallots
½ cup minced scallions
½ cup Pickled Cabbage, Thai Style (page 311 or store-bought)
1 lime, cut into wedges

Directions
Place the garlic in a mortar with the turmeric and the pinch of salt and pound to a paste. Alternatively, finely mince the garlic and whole turmeric, if using, and place the garlic and turmeric in a small bowl with the pinch of salt. Stir in the red curry paste and set aside.

Place a large heavy pot or wok over high heat. Add the 1 tablespoon oil and, when it is hot, toss in the curry paste mixture. Stir-fry for 30 seconds, then add the reserved ½ cup thick coconut milk and lower the heat to medium- high. Add the meat and sugar and cook, stirring frequently, for 4 to 5 minutes, until the meat has changed color all over. Add the remaining 2½ cups coconut milk, the water, fish sauce, and the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and cook at a strong simmer for about i o minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the lime juice. (The soup can be prepared up to an hour ahead, then reheated just before serving.)

Meanwhile, make the optional crispy noodles: Place a plate lined with several layers of paper towels by your stove. Place a large wok or heavy pot over high heat and add about 1 cup peanut oil, or 1/2 inch oil. When the oil is hot, drop in a strand of uncooked noodle to test the temperature. It should sizzle slightly as it falls to the bottom, then immediately puff and rise to the surface; adjust the heat slightly, if necessary. Toss a handful (about 1 cup) of noodles into the oil and watch as they puff up. Use a spatula or long tongs to turn them over and expose all of them to the hot oil. They will crisp up very quickly, in less than 1 minute. Lift the crisped noodles out of the oil and place on the paper towel-lined plate. Give the oil a moment to come back to temperature, and then repeat with a second handful of noodles. (The noodles can be fried ahead and left standing for several hours.)

To serve, bring a large pot of water to a vigorous boil over high heat. Drop in the remaining noodles (or all noodles, if you didn’t make crispy noodles), bring back to a boil, and cook until tender but not mushy, about 6 minutes. Drain well.

Divide the drained noodles among four large bowls. Ladle over the broth and meat. Top with crispy noodles, if you have them, and a pinch each of shallots and scallions. Serve with the remaining condiments set out in small bowls so guests can garnish their soup as they wish. Provide each guest with chopsticks and a large spoon.

Chewy Brownies

Servings: 16
Added flour helps to give these brownies their chewiness. It’s important not to over bake these or they’ll dry out.

Ingredients
4 oz (8 Tbs.) unsalted butter; more for the pan
4 oz unsweetened chocolate
1 ½ cup sugar
Scant ¼ tsp salt
2 tsp vanilla extract
2 lg eggs, at room temp
4 ½ oz (1 cup) flour
2 Tbsp natural cocoa (not Dutch-processed)

Directions
Position an oven rack on the middle rung. Heat the oven to 350°F. Butter an 8-inch square pan, line the pan bottom with parchment (or waxed paper), and then butter the parchment. In a double boiler over simmering water, melt the butter and chocolate. Remove the pan from the heat; cool slightly. Stir in the sugar, salt, and vanilla. Mix in the eggs, one at a time, stirring each time until blended. Add the flour and cocoa; beat until incorporated and the mixture is smooth, 30 to 60 seconds. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and bake until the top is uniformly colored with no indentation and a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out almost clean, with a few moist crumbs clinging to it, 35 to 45 min. Set the pan on a rack until cool enough to handle. Run a paring knife around the inside edge of the pan and then invert the pan onto a flat surface and peel off the parchment. Flip the baked brownie back onto the rack to cool completely. Cut into squares with a sharp knife.

Yields sixteen 2-inch squares.

Charred Corn Salad

Servings: —

Ingredients
3 – 4 ears fresh corn
1/2 cup cherry tomatoes halved
1/2 cup red onion in 1/4″” slices
2 Tbsp chopped cilantro
2 Tbsp Dijon mustard
1/4 tsp ground cumin
4 Tbsp olive oil
2 Tbsp cider vinegar
salt/pepper
1 Tbsp garlic

Directions
Roast corn over grill or boil for 10 minutes. Cut kernels from ears and place in bowl. Carefully grill sliced onions until just browned (it helps to put onions in a grill basket or else they will fall through grate). Add tomatoes, onions and cilantro. Whisk remaining ingredients together for dressing. When ready to serve, add dressing to taste.

Celery Root Salad (Remoulade)

Servings: —
Source: Coke Farm

Ingredients
1 lg or two sm celery roots
1 lemon, juiced
1 Tbsp mayo, or to taste
1 tsp dijon mustard
2 Tbsp vinegar (rice or white wine)
3 Tbsp oil (sunflower, walnut)
Salt and pepper to taste

Directions
Peel, wash and grate celery root and immediately drizzle with lemon juice to prevent oxidation.

Add mayo, mustard, vinegar, oil, salt, pepper, and stir.

Will keep in refrigerator for 2-3 days. This salad has a refreshing flavor and goes very well with fish.

P.S. Celery root is delicious cubed in soups and stews. When I prepare mashed potatoes, I sometimes substitute some celery root for potatoes. It gives the dish a sweet, nutty flavor

Catalan Mushrooms with Garlic & Parsley

Servings: 6
Source: Fine Cooking, September 2001
Serve these as a starter or perhaps as an accompaniment to the baked chicken. Leftovers are great on pizza or added to pasta sauce.

Ingredients
1 lb medium-size white mushrooms, stems trimmed to ½ inch, and quartered
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 Tbsp finely chopped fresh garlic
1 to 2 tsp coarse salt or sea salt

Directions
Put the mushrooms in a large bowl of cold water to soak for 1 0 min. Rinse them well and then drain.

Heat a large sauté pan with a tight-fitting lid over medium heat. Add the drained mushrooms to the dry pan, cover immediately, and cook until all the moisture from the mushrooms is leached out, about 20 min. You’ll know this has happened when you lift the lid for a peek and see the once-dry pan filled with liquid.

Remove the lid, raise the heat to medium high, and boil until the liquid evaporates and the mushrooms begin to sizzle in the dry pan but haven’t browned; they’ll have shrunk considerably and should be firm when poked with a fork. Lower the heat to medium and stir in 1 Tbsp of the olive oil, the parsley, and the garlic. Sauté, stirring frequently until the garlic softens, another 3 to 4 min. Transfer the mushrooms to a serving bowl, stir in the remaining 3 Tbsp olive oil, and season with salt to taste (I like to salt them liberally). Serve while hot.

Peach and Blueberry Galette

Servings: 8
Preheat: 350°
Prep Time: 30 min
Cook Time: 50 min
Source: http://www.finecooking.com/recipes/peach-blueberry-galette.aspx
This rustic fruit tart is the perfect vehicle for ripe summer blueberries and peaches. The crust is free form—it just gets folded over the filling and then baked. Serve warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or a dollop of crème fraîche.

Ingredients
For the crust

6-3/4 oz (1-1/2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour, more for rolling
1 Tbsp granulated sugar
1/2 tsp table salt
5-1/2 oz (11 Tbs.) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into 1/2″” dice
1 lg egg yolk
3 Tbsp whole milk

For the filling

1 lb peaches, peeled and cut into 1/2″” slices (ab 2 cups)
3/4 lb blueberries, rinsed and picked through (ab 2 cups)
1/4 cup light muscovado sugar or light brown sugar
2 Tbsp unbleached all-purpose flour
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
Pinch of table salt
1 lg egg, beaten
2 Tbsp demerara sugar

Directions
Combine the flour, sugar, and salt in a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment at low speed. Add the butter to the flour. Mix until the flour is no longer white and holds together when you clump it with your fingers, 1 to 2 minutes. If there are still lumps of butter larger than the size of peas, break them up with your fingers.

In a small bowl, beat the egg yolk and milk, and add to the flour mixture. Mix on low speed just until the dough comes together, about 15 seconds; the dough will be somewhat soft. Turn the dough out onto a sheet of plastic wrap, press it into a flat disk, wrap it in the plastic, and let it rest in the refrigerator for 15 to 20 minutes before rolling out.

Pre-heat oven to 350°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Make the filling & roll out the dough. In a medium bowl, toss the peaches and blueberries with the muscovado sugar, flour, cinnamon, and salt.

Lightly flour a large work surface and roll out the dough to a 12- to 13-inch round. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Arrange the fruit in the center of the dough, leaving about 1-1/2 inches of space around the perimeter of the dough empty. Fold the outside edge of the dough over the fruit, making occasional pleats. Brush the crust with the egg. Sprinkle the demerara sugar evenly over the dough and fruit.

Bake the galette until the crust turns a light brown and the filling bubbles, about 50 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes then cut into wedges and serve warm.

Carrot Cake with Orange Cream Cheese Frosting

Servings: 14
Preheat: 350°
Source: FINE COOKING Feb/Mar 2001
This cake really comes into its own on its second day, when the flavors have mellowed to perfection. Serves twelve to fourteen.

Ingredients
FOR THE CAKE:
Olive oil for the pans
1 cup sugar
1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
¾ cup olive oil
9 oz (2 cups) all-purpose flour, sifted
2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp grated nutmeg, preferably freshly grated
2 Tbsp baking powder
½ tsp salt
~1lb. carrots, peeled and cut in 1″” chunks
4 lg eggs, at room temp
2 tsp vanilla extract
1 cup pecans, lightly toasted, cooled, and finely chopped by pulsing in a food processor
¼ cup dark rum

FOR THE FROSTING:
2 8-oz. pkg cream cheese, somewhat softened
½ cup honey
1 Tbsp grated orange zest
½ cup heavy cream

Directions
To make the cake – Position a rack in the middle of the oven. Heat the oven to 350°F. Oil two 9×2-inch cake pans with olive oil, line the bottoms with parchment or waxed paper, and oil the paper.

Put both sugars and the olive oil in the bowl of a stand mixer and set aside. In a medium bowl, combine the flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, baking powder, and salt, mix well, and set aside. In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, process the carrots until they’re in tiny pieces, scraping down the sides of the bowl, about 25 seconds. Measure 3 cups of carrots and set aside. In a small bowl, lightly beat the eggs with a fork, stir in the vanilla, and set aside.

Beat the sugar mixture on low until well combined, scraping down the sides of the bowl once, 2 to 3 min. (it will look like wet sand). Continuing on low speed, gradually mix in half the dry ingredients. Add the remaining dry ingredients in 3 or 4 additions, alternating with the egg mixture, and ending with the dry; scrape the sides of the bowl once or twice. Stir in the carrots, pecans, and rum, scraping the sides of the bowl once. Let the batter sit for 15 min.

Divide the batter between the cake pans (if you have a scale, weigh them to see if they’re even) and bake until a toothpick inserted in the center of each comes out clean, 35 to 40 min. Cool them in the pans on a rack for 15 min. Run a paring knife around the inside edge to release the cakes. With the help of a second rack, turn each pan over so the bottom faces up, remove the pan, and carefully peel off and discard the paper liner. Using the racks again, flip each layer over so the top faces up again. Let cool completely.

To make the frosting – When the layers are cool, put the cream cheese, honey, and orange zest in the bowl of a stand mixer and whip on high until smooth and light, 1 to 2 min., scraping the sides of the bowl. Add the cream and whip on medium, scraping the sides of the bowl, just until you see tracks from the whip or beaters, 1 to 2 min.

To frost the cake – Set one cake layer on a cardboard base or other support (like a removable tart pan bottom) and spread it evenly with about one-third of the frosting. Set the second layer on top and cover the top smoothly (or with little swirls) with about one-third more of the frosting. Coat the sides evenly with a very thin layer of frosting, and then use what remains to finish the sides with a second coat. Refrigerate the cake for several hours – this firms up the frosting and mellows the flavors – but give it some time at room temperature before serving to take off the chill.

Carol and Norman’s Marinated Flank Steak

Servings: —

Ingredients
2 1/2 lb of flank steak–(I double the amount of meat and half again the marinade)

For the Marinade–
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup soy oil
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1 Tbsp lime juice
1 Tbsp oregano
1 Tbsp thyme
1/4 cup brown sugar
1 Tbsp oriental chili sauce
1/4 cup teriyake sauce
For the Salad–
11/2 lb onions, julienned
3 lb of red, yellow, and some green peppers julienned ( I don’t use much green)
11/2 lb new red potatoes, halved lengthwise and sliced widthwise to 1/4 inch thickness
1 Tbsp rosemary
1 Tbsp salt
3/4 Tbsp pepper

For the Dressing–( I use about half of the dressing recipe that they call for_)
1/2 cup soy oil
1/2 Tbsp salt
1/2 Tbsp rosemary
3/4 Tbsp minced garlic)

Directions
Trim flank steak, and cut across the grain into 4 inch wide pieces. Combine marinade ingredients and add flank steak, turning to coat well. Refrigerate overnight.

Spread onions, and peppers in a shallow pan in one layer (you will have to do several pans). Spread potatoes in another shallow pan in one layer ( again, more than one). Sprinkle rosemary, salt, and pepper over all. Put pans in a 400° oven. Remove onions and peppers after 15 minutes, potatoes after 20 minutes. Cool.

In a hot ungreased frying pan, cook flank steak).

Slice it diagonally against grain, 1/4 inch thick. ( We have grilled the steak instead of frying–either is fine).

Combine steak and vegetables.

Mix ingredients for the dressing. Pour and serve at room temperature.

Caramel Popcorn

Servings: 4 Quarts
Source: Fine Cooking 68, pp. 49
At Craft restaurant in Manhattan, where I work as the pastry chef, I like to send out a small bowl of caramel popcorn as a parting gift to guests. I prefer yellow popcorn; it seems to yield the biggest popped kernels.

Ingredients
Nonstick cooking spray or vegetable oil
3 Tbsp vegetable oil, such as peanut or canola
1/2 cup popcorn kernels, preferably yellow kernels
1-1/2 tsp baking soda
3 cup granulated sugar
1-1/2 Tbsp kosher salt
1-1/2 oz (3 Tbs.) cold
unsalted butter, cut into sm pieces

Variations
Spicy: Stir 3/4 tsp cayenne into the baking soda and add to the caramel as directed.
Nutty: Toss 2 cup lightly salted peanuts with the popcorn before pouring on the hot caramel.

Directions
Pop the popcorn: Spray two large heatproof rubber spatulas and a very large metal bowl (at least twice the volume of the popped popcorn) with nonstick cooking spray, or lightly wipe with vegetable oil. Heat the oil in an 8-quart or larger heavy-based stockpot over high heat. After a minute, put a popcorn kernel in the pot and cover. When the kernel pops, the oil is hot enough. Add the rest of the popcorn kernels. Cover the pot and shake it back and forth over the heat to agitate the kernels. Keep moving the pot as the popcorn pops. Remove the pot from the heat when the popping slows almost to a stop (it’s better to have a few unpopped kernels than burnt popcorn) and immediately pour the popped corn into the large metal bowl. Search through the popcorn, removing any unpopped kernels (which fall to the bottom of the bowl) or burnt pieces.

Make the caramel: Measure the baking soda into a small dish so it’s ready to go. Line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment, foil, or nonstick silicone mats. In a 4-quart or larger saucepan, combine the sugar, salt, butter, and 1 cup water. Gently stir with a wooden or metal spoon just enough to immerse the sugar. Brush down the sides of the pot with water and a clean pastry brush. Cook the sugar mixture over high heat without stirring until it melts and bubbles and turns a very light golden caramel color on top; this will take 10 to 20 minutes, depending on your stove. The caramel will be darker than it appears on the surface, so don’t overcook. At this point, remove the pot from the heat.

Working quickly off the heat, thoroughly whisk the baking soda into the caramel. Do this in or near the sink in case it spills over. The baking soda aerates the caramel, which makes it easier to eat when it’s cool, but causes it to bubble vigorously now, so be careful. Immediately pour the bubbling caramel over the popcorn in the bowl. Only use the caramel that pours out easily; don’t scrape the sides of the pot (the sugar on the sides of the pot crystallizes easily and can cause the caramel to do the same).

Using the heatproof spatulas, toss the caramel with the popcorn. When the popcorn is thoroughly coated, pour it onto the lined baking sheets and use the spatulas to pat it into one flat layer. As soon as it’s cool enough to touch, use your hands to break the layer into smaller clusters. Let them cool completely and then store in an airtight container for up to a week.